When I researched how I might get to the Outer Hebrides, I was beyond excited to discover the flight there was the only scheduled plane landing in the world on a beach!
This sealed my decision to tackle the Hebridean Way cycle route. Established in 2017 it is a 300-km paved route that spans the length of the islands, which are situated on the north-west coast of mainland Scotland, just 75 minutes from Glasgow International Airport.
The clear skies above our Twin Otter plane were rivalled only by the turquoise waters of the Atlantic below. And the wide grins as we disembarked felt almost as vast as our runway – the white sands of ‘Traigh Mhor’, translated from Gaelic as ‘Big Beach’. What a start! Welcome to the Isle of Barra.
Besides the bike, I rented locally, I had brought everything with me. This enabled me to camp, or stay in hostels as I wished. The starting point of the route is the adjacent island of Vatersay; small and perfectly formed. Most of the roads are quiet, and I found drivers to be very courteous and patient. My Vancouver bike commute has many more hazards for sure, except the minor technicality of cycling on the other side of the road. The cycling was challenging though not extreme, and the wind dictated that more than the terrain.
The Outer Hebrides consists of ten main islands, connected by a combination of ferries and causeways. The landscape is diverse, with sweeping, sandy beaches, peat-covered uplands, rocky mountains and thousands of lochs. It is wild and remote. For example, you will probably see one grocery shop per day though you may not. You are more likely to see a museum than a coffee shop. And for sure you will stumble across a wooden shed with delicious baked goods, an honesty box, and maybe even a cat overseeing operations. Along the way, the people you meet will be incredibly friendly and kind.
There is an abundance of sea and wildlife including: otters, golden and white-tailed eagles, and short-eared owls. Though my otter-sighting abilities once again failed me!
The route itself is straightforward and there are some great websites. Planned or otherwise, diversions were an adventure. One detour was to enjoy freshly caught scallops with bacon – only to discover the stall was closed. In the process I discovered a network of lochs and hamlets that had jumped straight off an oil painting. And it gave me another reason to return.
The Isle of Harris, perhaps more than any island, is often described as having the most incredible beaches and views. As I caught that first glimpse of the coastline ahead, I had to pull over, it was just so breathtaking.
That was the start of a truly magical day: warm sunshine, the treat of a ‘fancy coffee’ and cream tea overlooking pristine beaches. I arrived at the campsite, bagged the perfect spot in the sand dunes, and enjoyed a ‘fresh but not freezing’ swim with an equally giddy campsite buddy. And if things couldn’t get any better, that night I had a tent-side view of an Aurora Boreas display. And don’t even ask me about the stars… perfection.
Twelve hours later I had covered two mountain passes so I could hunker down in a hostel in the wake of 85 km gales and driving rain. The exposed position of the Outer Hebrides makes strong winds commonplace and creates weather patterns that can move swiftly. The temperatures are more moderate than mainland Scotland so in September I saw 15-20 c during the day and 8-13 c at night. Mostly sun/cloud and occasional showers. Thankfully the notorious ‘midges’ were mostly at bay by the wind.
On day six I reached the northern end of the route, the suitably rugged “Butte of Lewis” – lighthouse included. From there I went to Stornoway which is the main town on the islands. I celebrated that evening with some fellow travellers and a whisky toast.
The trip was incredible throughout. And while it felt like an achievement to complete the route, it was always going to be about the journey. It’s the Hebridean Way.
Source : Vancouver Sun
